There is no surer sign of summer at my house than grilled sourdough breads. I use my Saudi Arabian sourdough, pat flat 15 – 20 rounds, paint one side with olive oil and slap down the breads to fry over a hot charcoal grill. Once they’ve bubbled on top, the tops are oiled, or as Leah puts it, the tops are covered in oil paint, and they are flipped. Best if ripped into pieces and eaten while they are still steaming but in this case we saved most to have wrapped around grilled lamb shashlik. For the record, leaning against the bowl of grilled breads is a sourdough ciabatta, the prettier of the two I made. The less pretty, but tastier one, was full of gently toasted red onion and wild ramps.